December 8, 2024

Zurich is often at the top of any Switzerland itinerary and on your must-visit European city list. It is the financial capital of the country and the largest city in Switzerland. Not to mention its picturesque setting on Lake Zurich and the Limmat River, the perfectly preserved old town, and the beautiful snow-capped Alps, the setting is just stunning. It’s been repeatedly named one of the world’s most livable cities, and one of the more fashionable travel destinations in the 21st century.

The heart of Zurich is its Old Town, where you can easily spend a whole day just wandering around its narrow cobbled streets and guild houses in a community with both locals and international visitors without worrying about traffic. You will always find plenty to do, no matter what time of year you visit, from architecture that looks far too amazing to be real to artisan shops specializing in delicate watches and lively annual festivals.

An Overview of Zurich Jewish History

The Jewish presence in Switzerland began in the 13th century, and by the late 1700s, Jews had been restricted to just two villages of Lengnau and Endingen. Victor Amedee III, King of Sardinia, issued an order of tolerance on August 27, 1787, allowing Jews to benefit from common law and practice their religion with complete freedom.

At the end of the 18th century, 550 Jews were living in these two villages, making up the entire Jewish population of Switzerland. In 1750, homes had two different entrances: one for Jews and one for Gentiles. The opportunity to leave the towns of Endingen and Lengnau came after they were granted independence in 1866. Jews were limited to these towns for about 100 years and sought to start in a nearby city, with Zurich at the top of their list. The Israelitische Cultusgemeinde Zürich (ICZ), Zürich’s Jewish community, was then founded in 1862, and the synagogue was built in the Löwenstrasse district in 1884. Many Jews immigrated in the late 19th and early 20th centuries; many settled in Zurich’s 4th district from Alsace, Germany, and Eastern Europe.

The Synagogue and its Community

Anyone interested in learning about Zurich’s Jewish community should reach out to Mr. Michel Bollag, a local guide. He is knowledgeable about the general history of the city and Jewish life, both past and present. One of the local kosher coffee shops, Babi’s Bagel Shop, serves the best breakfast, making it an ideal place to start the day. Many young orthodox women had breakfast in the restaurant with their young children or carried strollers inside the small café.

Zurich has a large and vibrant Jewish community, with 6,800 Jews living there, the majority of whom live in its second and third districts, which are known for their vibrant religious, cultural, and social communities. The majority of Jews are Ashkenazi. As representatives of traditional and ultra-traditional Judaism, as well as liberal and secular Judaism, there are also Mizrahim and Sephardim. According to Bollag, “Many Israelis are working for companies such as Google and living in the suburbs; most of them are married to non-Jews, and they do not consider themselves as part of the community.”

Further down the street is the Agudas Achim Synagogue. A small group of Hasidic Jews entered the yeshiva, in which male and female congregants have separate entrances. Many of them came from East European countries like Poland, Russia, and the Baltic States near the end of the 19^th century. For over a century, they have lived and created communal institutions to meet their needs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Israelitische Religionsgesellschaft, or Israeli Religious Society Zurich, is the name of one of Zurich’s two Haredi congregations. The community, with more than 500 members, has been an essential part of the Swiss Federation of Israelite Communities since 1924. It is the only German-speaking community where this ideology has continued to exist without interruption for a century. Bollag told the NYJTG, “Over 70 small congregations (or satellite synagogues) have Shabbat services, with 100 and 200 congregants,” in districts two and three. There is a Jewish community library that was established in 1939 and is of national significance due to its unique content and includes 50,000 volumes of a Swiss cultural inheritance in Yiddish, Hebrew, and German.

The Synagogue Zürich Löwenstrasse is the oldest and largest synagogue. It is in a Moorish style with a beige and red-stripped facade and two towers topped by domes. There is a synagogue and school, a library, and a Mikveh. This is the Israelitische Cultusgemeinde Zürich (ICZ), which represents the most important Jewish community in Switzerland with 2,500 members. Daily Minyan, Shabbat, and holiday services take place at the synagogue. The synagogue, which was renovated three times—in 1936, 1952, and most recently, in 1993—is now recognized as a landmark.

Bollog told NYJTG, “One of the most interesting aspects about this community is that the first night of Passover is a full house, as it is a tradition for everyone to attend”.

The synagogue has a choir, which has been performing for more than a century and consists of twenty singers. Each month, the choir performed at Sabbath services, the High Holidays, and interfaith celebrations and concerts both locally and abroad. About 60 songs, mostly from the 19th century, were performed by Chazan-German, French, Polish, and Russian composers.

The lamp on the ceiling has an interesting story, according to Mr. Bollag. “Given their strong connection with the community, a Christian church donated it as a gift. You’ll notice that each of the Haichal features a memorial light on it that honors both the victims of the Shoah and the Israeli soldiers who died in combat.”

You will find a  smaller orthodox synagogue with windows designed by Israeli artist Agam on the second floor, where services and delicious breakfasts are prepared every morning.

The Jewish Liberal Community (JLG), established in 1978 and commonly known as the Reform or Chadash community, is another important organization. The synagogue supports gender equality, is committed to protecting minorities, and actively participates in dialogue between religions. The JLG Or Chadash’s Rabbi, Ruven Bar Ephraim, leads the services, gives spiritual guidance, and organizes special activities for its 400 members, including Passover dinner and Shabbat.

According to Rabbi Ephraim, “Today, the availability of kosher products varies from region to region. Thanks to Zurich’s many supermarkets and kosher bakeries, everyone—including the ultra-orthodox—has access to kosher food. In contrast to the United States, Switzerland does not allow the use of religious emblems for their kosher products, such as the letters OU, K, P, or “D” for dairy products. A kosher list is compiled by each community to provide details on these products.

 Zurich: What to see

University of Zurich Views

The Federal Institute of Technology (ETH) at the University of Zurich offers panoramic views of the Old Town and Limmat River. You can either walk up to the panorama terrace or take the Polybahn to avoid walking up the hill. It is one of the most iconic modes of transportation in the city. Albert Einstein was a student and a professor at ETH Zurich.

 

 

Wander the cobblestone streets of Altstadt

Also known as the Old Town, Altstadt is bursting with impressive medieval houses, grand town halls built in the Renaissance period, and countless winding lanes you can follow to discover it all. In this part of the city, you can see the Grossmünster double tower, Zurich’s main landmark, the birthplace of Dadaism at Cafe Voltaire, and go into the Belleview Apotheke, dating back to 1887.

Fraumünster

This 13th-century cathedral is well-known for its magnificent stained-glass windows, which were designed by the Russian-Jewish master Marc Chagall (1887–1985), who created the series of five windows in the choir stalls in 1971 and the rose window in the southern transept in 1978.

Bürkliplatz Pier

Bürkliplatz Pier is a square on Lake Zurich and the place to catch a boat for your trip around the lake. It has lovely scenic views of the mountain, the pier, and the shores of Lake Zurich. There is a vegetable market twice a week and a Sunday farmer’s market.

Window shop at the exclusive stores along Bahnhofstrasse.

Make your way back downtown to explore one of the world’s most expensive shopping streets. Bahnhofstrasse stretches from Lake Zurich to Hauptbahnhof station. The closer you get to the lake, the swankier (and pricier!) the stores become. These sidewalks are wide as you check out the regular high-end shopping, from Gucci to Rolex and Chanel to Burberry.

Lindenhof

A park on a hilltop covered by trees offers breathtaking views of the Grossmünster and the Limmat in the heart of the Old Town. On a peaceful plateau on a hill overlooking the Limmat River and the skyline of its right bank, you can stretch your legs on a seat covered by trees. Unless otherwise noted, water fountains offer clean, drinkable water that is on par with that in pre-bottled containers.

Ms. Aurelia Carlen from the Zurich Tourism Office shared the perfect words, to sum up the largest and prettiest city in Switzerland:

“Switzerland has just 440,000 residents. It is similar in size to a small town with everything, and it has more than 100 art galleries and 50 museums. It is a city that is 10 minutes away from mountains, parks, and beautiful natural surroundings. It is Zurich’s charm and diversity that offers a wealth of history combined with incredible vitality while being embraced by stunning natural beauty.”

Kosher Dining in Zurich:

Babi’s Bagel Shop

Babie’s is a vegetarian and dairy restaurant offering pasta, pizza, flavorful soups, fresh salads, and desserts. Hechsher: Agudas Achim Zurich (Rabbi S. Breisch)

Tel: 043 222 46 59, info@babisbagel.com

Ma’adan Bakery                                       

Schimmelstrasse 1

8003 Zürich

+41 44 762 40 60    maadan@maadan.ch

Florentin  Kosher Restaurant

 

To plan a trip to Switzerland, contact Switzerland Tourism or go to https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-us/.

To make a hotel reservation, email info@engimatt.ch or go to https://engimatt.ch/en/.

Fly Swiss: https://www.swiss.com/us/en/homepage.

Visit the Swiss Travel System at https://www.mystsnet.com/en/.

Story by Meyer Harroch, New York Jewish Travel Guide, and New York Jewish Guide.com

The author took part in a press trip sponsored by Switzerland Tourism.